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Bengal, of which Calcutta is the undisputed political and socio-cultural
capital, is one of the most fertile lands in the world. The soil of the
estuarine delta of the Ganges is ideal for the cultivation of rice and a vast
variety of vegetables (some of which make their way to grocery stores in Europe
and Japan these days). The myriad distributaries of the Ganges is home to
perhaps an equal number of species of fish and shellfish, including the famous hilsa
(a close cousin of the European herring or the American shad) and the bhetki
("beckti" to the India-returned English). The district of
Maldah, about 250 kilometers (150 miles) north of Calcutta, is famous for its
mangoes (far overshadowing the other tropical fruits that grow abundantly in the
rest of Bengal, for example, lychees, jackfruit and coconuts), while the
foothills of the Himalayas, besides yielding oranges, cardamom, cinnamon and
other spices, is famous for its tea. After all, Darjeeling, which is synonymous
with the finest tea in the world, is the most popular hill resort for Calcuttans
and the northernmost district of Bengal.
The abundance and variety of fresh ingredients at Calcutta's markets,
together with the historical ease with which exotic food products (foie gras and
beluga caviar both were well-known at the tables of Calcutta) have shown up at
the dockyards of Calcutta, have made the Bengali cuisine arguably the most
sophisticated in the world (the only ones which rival are the French or Chinese,
per the late French president, Francois Mitterand himself). The immigrants to
Calcutta have also brought their native cuisines that have further thrived on
all that was available here, to levels sometimes unknown in their native lands.
Thus, one of the most ubiquitous item at Chinese restaurants around the world,
Hot and Sour Soup, emerged neither from the imperial kitchens of the forbidden
city, nor from the pleasure houses of Shanghai, but from a Chinese restaurant on
Park Street, Calcutta.
Calcutta has traditionally been regarded as the cradle of fine dining
"East of the Suez" and although many of the restaurants that were
responsible for this reputation, like Peleti's, Firpo's Louis XIV and Maxim's
(of Paris fame) have disappeared, others have taken their place so that the
legend lives on. The best classic restaurants are still to be found on Park
Street and its offshoots, serving everything from American, European, Middle
Eastern, Latino, East Asian, and Northern Indian with a distinctly Calcutta
flavor and Continental flourish, although the newer ones are appearing in the
south and in the shopping malls all over. This is not to say that Calcutta has
haute cuisine only. Calcutta's dining scene has everything from palaces to
pavements. Someone started selling food on the go (and still does), in the form
of kathi kebabs (a lesser known but arguably tastier cousin of the Greek gyro),
a couple of decades before the first MacDonald's or Kentucky Fried Chicken. It
used to be until recently that a Bengali meal, the king of cuisines, could only
be had at a Bengali home, but that has changed now so that upscale Bengali
restaurants now serve elaborate meals in an atmosphere that exudes traditional
hospitality. Of the expatriate cuisines in Calcutta, the most obvious is
Chinese, found in the Chinatown area as well in most neighborhoods around the
city. And by the way, if there are people who would judge a city's culinary
worth by the presence of international fast food chains, Calcutta has the
largest Pizza Hut outlet in Asia and Dominos Pizza is available in most places.
The following is a list of restaurants categorized by cuisine, price and
location.
Restaurant |
Cuisine |
Price |
Address |
Description |
Aaheli |
Bengali |
150-350 |
12 Chowringhee Road
Phone: +91-33-2228 0301
Nearest Metro: Esplanade
|
This was Calcutta's first upscale Bengali
restaurant, and it still draws a crowd. Traditional Bengali delicacies such
as macher sorse paturi (fish cooked with mustard paste) and chingri
malai curry are served in an intimate terra-cotta dining room. AE, DC, MC,
V. |
Aangan |
Indian |
|
Swabhumi
89C Maulana Azad Sarani
Phone: +91-33-2235 9236
jiggis@hotmail.com
|
Popular new restaurant that specializes in the
cuisine of the Indian state of Rajasthan. |
Amber |
Eclectic |
|
11 Waterloo Street
Phone: +91-33-2248 3018
amberskk@vsnl.net
Nearest Metro: Chandni Chowk
|
Tandoori |
Aminia |
Moghlai |
|
6A SN Banerjee Road
Phone: +91-33-2244 1318
Nearest Metro: Esplanade
|
Biryani |
Aqua Java |
Cafe/ Multi-cuisine |
|
79 Shambhu Nath Pandit Street
Phone: +91-33-2455 8501 |
Cafe |
Bar-B-Q |
Chinese |
150-350 |
43 Park Street
Phone: +91-33-2249 9916
Nearest Metro: Park Street
|
This local favorite serves Cantonese and Szechwan
dishes in a setting that innovatively mixes Chinese and German-chalet decor
under a name that, of course, conjures neither of the two. Try the crisp
fried chicken served with a mild "surprise" sauce or the boneless
chili chicken. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. |
Blue Fox |
Eclectic |
|
55 Park Street
Phone: +91-33-2249 7948
Nearest Metro: Park Street
|
Right in the thick of things and popular with a
young, hip contingent, the large and spacious Blue Fox has high ceilings, an
overhead loft with additional tables, and quiet modern-Indian decor. Among
the various Indian and Continental dishes, the sizzlers and crab or lobster
thermidor are good bets. DC. |
Charnock City |
Multi-cuisine |
|
KB-26 Salt Lake City
Phone: +91-33-2335 1349
charnockcity@yahoo.com
|
|
China Valley |
Chinese |
|
11/1 Lansdowne Road
Phone: +91-33-2247 0294
Nearest Metro: Rabindra Sadan
|
Enormous statues of male and female Chinese
figures dominate the decor, surrounded by a stunning array of vases and
urns, and large aquariums filled with iridescent tropical fish spur the
imagination. China Valley's food is top-grade; a popular dish is the hot,
spicy prawn Shanghai with rice. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC. |
Chinese Pavilion |
Chinese |
|
P21 Old Ballygunge Road
Phone: +91-33-2280 6107
Trams:
|
|
Chinoiserie |
Chinese |
|
Taj Bengal
34B Belvedere Road
Phone: +91-33-2223 3939
Trams: ??????
|
Consistently rated one of the best Chinese
restaurants in India (no mean honor these days), this specialty restaurant
boasts pricey delicacies such as Peking duck and a highly unusual selection
of corn dishes. One crunchy appetizer consists of deep-fried kernels of
American corn; another dish features corn delicately flavored with garlic.
Unsurpassed food, a calm green-and-beige color scheme accented by old-world
mirrors and paintings, and excellent Taj service make dining here an
experience. Reservations are advised on weekdays and essential on weekends.
AE, DC, MC, V. |
Chung Wah |
Chinese |
|
13A&B Chittaranjan Avenue
Phone: +91-33-2237 7003
Nearest Metro: Chandni Chowk
|
|
Escoffier |
Patisserie |
|
2/6 Lansdowne Road
Phone: +91-33-2475 4080
gfpl@vsnl.com
Nearest Metro: Rabindra Sadan
|
|
Floriana |
Eclectic |
|
13D Russell Street
Phone: +91-33-2226 0475
Nearest Metro: Park Street
|
Piano Music Bar, Take way Service, Home Delivery.
|
Flury's |
Patisserie |
|
18 Park Street
Phone: +91-33-2229 7664
Nearest Metro: Park Street
|
Reputed Swiss confectionary and tea room. Famous
for pastries, puffs and Viennese coffee. |
The Hub |
Eclectic |
|
Taj Bengal
34B Belvedere Road
Phone: +91-33-2223 3939
Trams: ??????
|
This recently opened restaurant in the Taj
Bengal hotel has been dubbed Calcutta's "international food
theater." The grand, spacious interior, with marble floors and a glass
spiral staircase, matches that of the hotel lobby. You can see the chefs at
work in the kitchen, and they prepare dishes to your taste, making a meal
here somewhat interactive. Though the emphasis is on Italian food, you get a
wide choice of cuisines. Try the homemade pasta or the rack of lamb in brown
sauce. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. |
Kewpies |
Bengali |
|
2 Elgin Lane
Phone: +91-33-2475 9880
Trams: ????
|
Quaint and exclusive, this restaurant is in high
demand at the moment. The delicious thalis (combination platters) are
available both vegetarian and non-vegetarian, the latter with assorted meats
or fish only, are served in a typically Bengali style: on cut banana leaves.
You can also order the thali's vegetable or meat portions à la carte.
Reservations essential. No credit cards. |
Mainland China |
Chinese |
|
3A Gurusaday Road
Phone: +91-33-2287 2006
Nearest Metro:
Trams:
|
This restaurant is popular with Calcutta's chic
set. Though the dining room is large, grand mirrors give the illusion of
even more space, and the furniture is minimalist though comfortable. The
Szechuan menu is extensive. Opt for the seafood platter or the chicken in a
hot garlic sauce. Attentive service and valet parking make for a posh
evening. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. |
Porto Rio |
Eclectic |
|
28 Circus Avenue
Phone: +91-33-2281 3921
Trams:
|
Inside a white bungalow, helpful wait staffers
dart past whitewashed walls hung with elegant paintings and take orders from
guests who are seated at tables adorned with red-check cloths. Although the
menu has Continental items, it's the many dishes typical of India's eastern
and western coasts that are the draw. The Goan fish curry and the roast crab
are both excellent choices. No credit cards. |
Peter Cat |
Eclectic |
|
18 Park Street
Phone: +91-33-2229 8841
Nearest Metro: Park Street
|
Peter Cat's so-called cello kebab -- pilaf-style
rice with egg, butter, two mutton kebabs, and one chicken kebab -- is one of
the most popular dishes in Calcutta. The dining room is intimate, with white
stucco walls, Tiffany-style lamps, and soft lighting, and the menu is a
mixture of good Continental and Indian dishes, especially tandoori fare. DC,
V. |
The Sheriff |
Tex-Mex |
|
Lansdowne Road & Elgin Road
Phone: +91-33-2280 6444
Nearest Metro: Netaji Bhawan
|
Wild West joint, very popular with the
"smart crowd". The walls of this small space are bedecked with
Stetsons, Colt revolvers, and lassos, and the waiters are dressed as
cowboys. The Mexican food is fair enough if you need a little variety.
Reservations essential. AE. |
Sonargaon |
Indian |
|
Taj Bengal
34B Belvedere Road
Phone: +91-33-2223 3939
Trams: ??????
|
The name means "golden village," and
this North Indian restaurant is a tasteful replica of a rural home, complete
with a courtyard, a well, dark wood on taupe stone, copper curios, and metal
light fixtures. Popular dishes include kakori kebab (minced lamb
kebab), murg Wajid Ali (stuffed, pounded chicken breast marinated in
saffron and cooked in a mildly spicy sauce), and chingri malai.
Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. |
Taaja |
Eclectic |
|
29/1A Ballygunge Circular Road
Phone: +91-33-2476 7334
Trams:
|
Taaja ("Fresh") is one of the best
Continental restaurants in Calcutta, serving Greek, French, Italian,
Spanish, and Hungarian food, but it goes beyond this classification to offer
dishes from the Caribbean and Far East as well. The menu gives new meaning
to the word "eclectic." Paella, Cajun crab cakes, moussaka, and
cannelloni are all memorable choices. Reservations essential. MC, V. |
Thai Tonight |
Thai |
|
29/1A Ballygunge Circular Road
Phone: +91-33-2454 2036
Trams:
|
An alternative to the pricey, though more
authentic, Thai food in luxury hotels' restaurants, this place offers a
friendly ambience, great service, and even better prices. Try the standard
chicken green curry or the bargain-priced glass noodles. Reservations
essential. AE, DC, MC, V. |
Zaranj |
Indian |
|
26 Chowringhee Road
Phone: +91-33-2249 5572
Nearest Metro: Park Street
|
Plush and well-decorated with a fountain and
ornate furniture, this is a relaxing place for dinner: the staff doesn't
rush you. Choose from a large à la carte menu with vegetarian and non-vegetarian
options. The tasty murgh nawabi is a boneless chicken with yogurt and
nuts roasted over a charcoal grill. Reservations essential. AE, DC, V. |
Bengali Cuisine
Moghlai Cuisine
European Immigrant Cuisine
Anglo-Indian Cuisine
Hakka Chinese Cuisine
Indian Immigrant Cuisine
Global Village Cuisine
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