What Calcutta lacks in years it makes up in intensity. Calcutta is a mere 300
years old, compared to India's 5000 years, but most landmarks, physical or
otherwise, of its 300 years exist, only slightly worn with age. While Calcutta
lacks the archaeological sites of Athens, Cairo, Delhi and Rome, it is rich in
living institutions that go back centuries. Parts of the riverfront south of the
city are covered by rainforests just like they were when the first European
traders arrived. The streets of Calcutta's Dalhousie Square and
Chowringhee districts are lined with neo-Gothic and neo-Renaissance buildings
that speak the tales of the Scots businessmen, who came as much to build and
trade as they did to pillage, plunder and swindle, that defined the first wave
of globalization in the 18th and 19th centuries. Also, there are museums that
are just a few years younger than the oldest in the world, and the oldest golf
course outside of the United Kingdom & Ireland, pre-dating the first in the
United States by over half a century. South Park Street Cemetery is the final
resting place of many pioneers, including a son of Charles Dickens. And as you
walk down the streets you bump into plaques that remind you that a certain house
was the birthplace of the English novelist, William Makepeace Thackeray and
another was where Dr. Ronald Ross first discovered the fact that malaria was
borne by mosquitoes. The street names have history, too - you could be walking
by Mission Row, a busy street leading to the Dalhousie Square area, and you
might just miss in the din, the Old Mission Church, established by Swedish
missionaries in 1767. Nearby, if you drove into the town of Chandernagor, you
might just miss the gateway proclaiming Liberty, Fraternity and Equality, from
where, for the next few miles the Grand Trunk Road becomes Rue de Paris.
Chandernagor was a French colony until 1956 (actually the French administration
was unceremoniously evicted in 1949, but the possession was not officially
handed over to India until 1956), and is still reflected in the absence of
English signs in the local museum (all information is in Bengali and French!).
Calcutta is truly a city where history comes walking down and meets you
halfway on the street. While India's 5000 years of history are showcased in the
Indian Museum, all of modern India is showcased on the streets of Calcutta,
where it happened anc continues to happen today.